1. I love you.
2. I’m not drinking tonight.
3. I’m leaving tomorrow.

I’m almost hesitant to share this blog post as Utila, Honduras is still somewhat of a hidden gem untouched and unspoiled.  With its crystal clear turquoise waters, fine-grained immaculate sand, inexpensive diving, and even less expensive tequila, Utila is an incredible tropical paradise and backpacker heaven.

Sadly, Honduras is one of the least visited countries in Central America due to its violent crime rate and sometimes unfair bad rap from the press.  The fact is, certain cities are more dangerous than others, but many areas are perfectly safe to visit.  On my trip to Honduras, I spent some time in San Pedro Sula, often dubbed “the most violent city in the world” outside of war zones, and was of course always aware of my surroundings, but never once felt unsafe or in danger.

Regardless, Utila and the rest of the Bay Islands are generally recognized as safe and are a desirable destination where you can truly let go and relax.

With a population of under 5,000 residents and a total area of about 17 miles, Utila is the smallest of the Bay Islands and is known as one of the best places in the world to learn how to dive.  Located just 18 miles north of mainland Honduras, this laid-back town feels worlds away.

Getting There

To get to Utila, most fly into San Pedro Sula, Honduras (SAP) or Roatan, Bay Islands (RTB).  Both of these international airports offer direct service from many major United States cities.

I definitely recommend flying into San Pedro Sula, Honduras, and then taking a local flight to Utila (UII).  However, to ensure the most convenient, cost-effective travel, this will take some advanced planning.  I wanted to explore the city prior to departing for the islands so it wasn’t vital in my instance to coordinate so strategically.  But if you are looking to visit and explore Utila only, keep in mind flights do not run daily and flight times are always well before dawn as Utila airport has no runway lighting for safe landing and departure in the dark.

There are two main airlines to choose from, CM Airlines, and SOSA Airlines (about $200 USD per person, roundtrip).  The other flight option is to fly private (about $700 per flight, one way).  I like to throw things together completely last minute and tend to just “wing it” so I ended up flying SOSA Airlines on the way to Utila, and flew private on the way back.

If flight schedules don’t work in your favor, there are ferry services available from La Ceiba, a port city on the coast of mainland Honduras, to Utila.  To get from San Pedro Sula to La Ceiba, you can take a van which will cost about $140 USD per person, one way, and take about two to three hours.  Once in La Ceiba, you’ll catch the Utila Dream Ferry to Utila which takes about an hour and costs about $25 USD per person, one way.

When to Go

Utila is unique in that there really isn’t one specific set time of year to plan your visit.  Temperatures on the island remain consistent in the mid-eighties Fahrenheit year-round, slightly cooler in the evenings, with winter lows in the 70’s F and summer lows in the 80’s F.

The rainy season extends from October through January and diving boats run year-round without rain affecting them much if at all.  As long as the rain isn’t torrential and lasting for multiple days, visibility is not hindered.

If you’re interested in music festivals and enjoy live DJs, Sun Jam music festival is held annually on Water Cay in the first week of August. It is the biggest music festival in Honduras and one of the largest in Central America as well.

If swimming with or sighting whale sharks is something you hope to experience, the best months to visit are from March through September. 

Where to Stay

Hidden on a side street off the beaten path, owner Neil Keller spent over fifteen years building the villas and bungalows that make up Jade Seahorse and the Treetanic bar. The Jade Seahorse is a unique tropical Caribbean hideaway for those looking for an out-of-the-ordinary experience while still getting a taste of Utila’s renowned diving.  There are six cabin options to choose from, a restaurant, and a bar in the trees.  

During my stay, I choose the Fantasea cabin.  It’s the perfect option for anyone needing a bit more space than your average accommodations.  The main selling points of the Fantasea cabin are the two decks above it.  Perched up high above the entire lodge are the most spectacular, optimal views of the entire East End of the island.  The sunrise views from here are absolutely breathtaking!

Know Before You Go

• Communication – On Utila, most hotels, bars, and restaurants have free WiFi although the signal isn’t always the most reliable. If it’s imperative to have a connection whether it be to the internet or to mobile communication, you will probably want to consider a data plan.
• Bugs – The Bay Islands have a Sandfly problem: Come prepared with repellents (DEET) and ointments. Mosquitoes can be a problem as well. This was honestly the biggest yet the ONLY downfall of the trip in my opinion.
• Money – There is one bank on the island of Utila, Banco Atlanta near the Ferry Dock. There are two ATMs with maximum transaction withdrawal amounts between HNL4,000 and HNL5,0000 (about $165 to $200 USD). If you are low on cash, or worse yet, out of cash, make it a priority to get to the ATMs early as they are known to run completely out.

Getting Around

You can walk everywhere. Seriously. And if not, a Tuk Tuk can take you anywhere around town for about 20 Lempiras (less than $1 USD).

Although completely unnecessary, I choose to rent a golf cart a few of the days I visited. Bodden Rentals near the Ferry Dock came highly recommended to me along with the owner, Lance Bodden. Locally owned and operated, Bodden Rentals has everything you could possibly need from fishing rods to boats, to ATVs and golf carts, they offer everything and anything you could possibly need for some fun in the sun on this tropical island!

Utila by Area

Nearly all roads on the island are within a 2 square km area around Utila Town center.  An additional segment of roads can be found east of the town center which takes you to the Airport and Pumpkin Hill Beach.  To get anywhere else on the island, you have to take a boat or walk.

Area A

Ferry Dock Southwest: From the Ferry Dock, there is a short walk past various shops to Main Street.  Heading Southwest, you’ll pass Marios’s Place on the left, and Munchies on the right (with a sizeable porch for people watching), followed by Tranquila Bar (tequila Tuesday anyone?!) immediately after on the left.  Next, you’ll come up to Hotspot Cafe and Bay Islands College of Diving on the left, and Maggie’s Apartments on the right, which for long-term rentals, I’ve heard great things!

The town center is right about where the Fire Station, Hotel Utila, and the Caribbean Cafe are located.  Past the town center on the right is The Utila Medical Center which offers regular visits, physical exams for dive courses, and 24-hour emergency care as well.

As you continue in a Southwest direction, there are dive shops, an assortment of other stores, and some housing. Next, you’ll reach Skid Row Bar which is everything a hard-drinking bar should be, complete with an unfinished floor, a tin roof held together by spit, glue, and maybe even chewing gum, some bar games, and every type of person possibly imaginable. If you stop into this establishment on your trip to Utila, which I highly recommend you do, ask about the “Giufity Challenge”. I’ll leave you with that. :)

If you keep going Southwest, there are a few more bars, restaurants, and accommodations before you arrive at Chepes Beach.  Here you will find Hotel Margarita Bay right across the street from the beach.  This area is considered the west end of Utila Town.  There are public restrooms opposite Relapse and some smaller-sized eateries and bars as well. One of my favorites to swing by for quick shots any time of day is a family-owned bar and restaurant called Carlotta’s on the Beach.

Just past Chepes Beach is the popular backpacker hostel, The Venue. Here you’ll find a great little restaurant and bar, an outdoor pool, hammocks, kayaks, and other tours and activities, and beachfront lagoon access. There isn’t much to do or see past The Venue aside from Sunset Tiki Bar, Blue Bayou Bar and Grill, and homes of varying sizes and conditions. At the very end of the road is a view of the entrance to the lagoon, and also the meeting point for the water taxi to Coral Beach Village.

Area B

Ferry Dock Southeast:  Once again, from the Ferry Dock, there is a short walk past various shops to Main Street.  Heading Southeast, you’ll pass tons of popular restaurants and bars.  First, across the street from the water is Buccaneers Bar and Grill where on my first night in town, I immediately hit it off with the bartender whose name was also Christina.  Because of her, I stopped by Buccaneers pretty much every day during my stay in Utila.

After passing Buccaneers, on the opposite side of the road is a little coffee shop called ReThink, and then the island’s main supermarket, Bush’s which carries all of the standard grocery items as well as some US brands, and wine and liquor too.  Above Bush’s Supermarket is Bush’s Boxing and Fitness Center which offers a full range of weights, both dumbbells and barbells, benches, and even a few machines.

Walking further into town you will find Mermaids, a great open-air buffet-style restaurant, and mini grocery store combined.  Opposite Mermaids is Rubi’s Place, a 12 room casual inn, and Che Pancho, a popular restaurant with awesome smoothies, and filet mignon with fresh house-made Chimichurri sauce that is to die for as well as other typical Argentinean dishes.

As you continue down Main Street in the Southeast direction, you’ll come across a cute little place called Camilla’s Bakery from 6:30 AM to 2 PM and then Pizza Nut from 5 PM to 9 PM.  Camilla’s offers the best fresh-baked bread in town daily, and everything from entire loaves to baguettes and bagels, to pies, sandwiches, smoothies, and full breakfast served until 11 AM.  Pizza Nut has delicious thin crust pizza large enough for two to share for dinner.

Across from Pizza Nut is SeaBreaker Bar and Grille offering food, drinks, darts, pool, and live music.  Next to SeaBreaker is The Rock Cafe with Caribbean Dreams Apartments directly across the street next to Utila Water Sports and some more hotels and apartments.

Next, on the waterside, is Hotel Trudy.  Working together with Underwater Vision Dive Center, Hotel Trudy offers dive courses as well as separate accommodations for budget backpackers and also those looking for more comfort.  There is an onsite bar/grill with great daily specials and a lively younger crowd every night of the week as well as breathtaking sunset views that can be enjoyed while relaxing on a lounge chair or hammock with a refreshing Salva Vida. About 25 meters further, there is an awesome coffee shop called Rio Coco Cafe, and I don’t even drink coffee, so that says a lot!

There are a few more dive shops, accommodations, and restaurants as well as Yoga Utila which holds its variety of classes on the dock at Freedive Utila.  RJ’s, which is a barbecue hot spot open only Sundays, Wednesdays, and Fridays from 5 PM to 9 PM can be found opposite Freedive Utila.  Ask anyone on the island where to find the best food, and they’ll tell you RJ’s for sure!  This is where the busy part of town ends.  You’ll cross a bridge and end up at a point right past the Sea Eye 1 Hotel where Main Street ends. Here you’ll find Bando Beach. This was one of my favorite chill spots during my time in Utila. Although swimming isn’t the greatest, there are lounge chairs, picnic tables, and a beach bar with an enormous variety of fruity frozen drinks as well as Dorito breaded chicken tenders that I shamefully will admit I enjoyed quite a few times during my stay.

Area C

Slightly Inland:  Starting from where Main Street and Monkey Tail Road intersect (at Banco Atlantida just off the Ferry dock), if you head inland you’ll not only notice a dramatic increase in mosquitos, but you’ll also get to explore the more unfamiliar, rural parts of the island.

As Monkey Tail Road turns into Lozano Road with a slight right or left turn, heading towards the right will lead you to Jade Seahorse Nightland Cabins and Treetanic Bar.  As I mentioned previously, both are one-of-a-kind, truly unique, must-see spots to check out during your Utila stay.  Voted one of the most beautiful bars in the world, indubitably so, every part of the establishment is covered in thoughtfully decorated recycled art.

If you head further inland just about 50 or so meters more, you’ll walk directly into Mango Inn Resort and Mango Inn Bar and Grill.  Located in more of the residential part of town, yet still, within walking distance of Main Street, Mango Inn provides large rooms with individual porches, relaxing hammocks throughout the garden atmosphere, and a private pool and restaurant in an all-around tropical paradise.

After enjoying some time at Mango Inn, if you head Southwest on Rocky Hill Road, it loops back around to Main Street and connects at Mamy Lane which you’ll turn left on once you arrive.  Although no longer in business, it is something I feel definitely worth mentioning, at the intersection of Rocky Hill Road and Mamy Lane was an amazing and super cozy establishment called Funky Chicken Inn. 

Informal, and tucked away from the hustle and bustle of Main Street, it was a small open-air restaurant with only a handful of tables.  Prior to entry, most removed their shoes before setting one of the many oversized pillows near a low height table ready to enjoy an amazing, authentic Thai meal.  This one-man show was put on by none other than the owner himself, Stu.  A worldwide explorer, Stu was also an amazing chef and a welcoming and friendly host. He entertained with many stories not only of his international travel experiences but of the island of Utila as well. I do not know what happened to this place or Stu, but I genuinely hope he is still living the dream, traveling, and spreading knowledge and love through his endless fascinating stories.

Making a left turn at Mamy Lane brings you right back to the waterfront on Main Street.  En route to Main Street, you will find the best deals at some convenience stores as well as less expensive backpacker accommodations, and before you know it, you’re back to “town”.

Area D

Further Inland:  Following the path from where Lozano Road (Airport Road) and Rocky Hill Road intersect at Mango Inn, you can either take Lozano Road north to Pumpkin Hill Road ending at Pumpkin Hill Beach, or you can take Rocky Hill Road northeast to Lozano Road switching next to Pumpkin Hill Road, then also ending at Pumpkin Hill Beach.  By foot, it takes about an hour to get from the main area of town to Pumpkin Hill Beach.  By golf cart, it takes about ten minutes.

I explored the Pumpkin Hill area in decent depth and actually researched and visited some available property options with a realtor.  See, I wasn’t kidding about those three lies of Utila.  Pumpkin Hill is away from the hustle and bustle of “the town” but quickly and easily accessible by the road improvements over the last few years.  It is an “up-and-coming” area quickly being acquired by out-of-town investors and those looking for income-generating property opportunities.  There has been an extension of the electricity grid as well as the availability of piped water to the area in recent years helping to aid in the growth of the region.

The developing Pumpkin Hill area still has a substantial amount of vacant lots, but there are a few businesses already nearby.  There is, of course, Camp Utila which opened in 2017.  Camp Utila offers private rooms, a campground, and a hostel just steps from the beach.  They have a full bar, bathrooms, hot water showers, power, drinking water, grilling areas, and Wi-Fi.  There are also the bat caves on Brandon Hill.  If you are heading in the direction of Pumpkin Hill, you’ll turn right at a white post and see a bunch of rocks and the small cave entrance.  It’s a pretty cool experience I would definitely recommend.

Heading back into town can be accomplished by way of the coastal road until forced inland towards the airport.  There is another seaside road that runs from the airport south through the Big Bight area and also what is known as the Tradewinds area.  This road eventually runs directly into Main Street at Bando Beach and then directly back into town.

Area E

Coral Beach Village:  Prior to my Utila vacation while searching for places to stay I came across Coral Beach Village.  Although I am glad I did not choose this resort as my home away from home, solely due to the secluded location, it must be said it still is a spectacular retreat.

Accessible only by boat, Coral Beach Village is a three hundred acre expansive waterfront community at the South Shore of Utila Island.  Located beachfront, Neptunes’s Bar and Grill is the hot spot of the resort.  Offering both indoor and outdoor dining, relaxing hammocks, and some of the best shore snorkeling and diving in the world, this is a definite Utila checklist essential! Note: If you are not staying at Coral Beach Village, take the complimentary ferry boat from the Blue Bayou dock offered hourly from 9 AM to 5 PM.

Top Nine (Plus One Former) Utila, Honduras Must-Dos

1. Learn to Scuba Dive – With an epic coral reef, inexpensive prices, and near-perfect diving conditions, Utila is one of the most popular places in the world to dive.  For around $300 USD (about 7500 Lempiras), you can receive your Open Water Certification, two dives to use after you are qualified, and accommodations for the duration of your studies (4 nights)!
2. Take a Freediving Course – Take just one breath and dive down 20 meters (about 70 feet)!  Your heartbeat slows, your body relaxes, and you’ll be amazed at what you are capable of.  For $200 USD (about 5000 Lempiras), you can train to receive your freediving certification.
3. Swim with Whale Sharks – Utila is one of the best places in the world to see whale sharks as they make their homes in the surrounding waters year-round. Swimming with this enormous species is a once in a lifetime experience you will never forget!
4. Visit the Airport Caves – Beginning at about three meters (10 feet) from the surface, the playground of caverns, caves, and swim-throughs known as Airport Caves is filled with an enormous array of colorful sea life.  With the reef wall dropping down to about 15 meters (50 feet), and a gradual sandy slope down to about 30 meters (100 feet), you can scuba, freedive, or snorkel in these caves.
5. Pay a Visit to Quiebra Piedra – One of Utila’s most eccentric residents, Shelby McNabb maintains an extravagant botanical garden called Quiebra Piedra.  Swing by for a tour, taste fresh tropical fruits and learn a wealth of information for just 100 Lempiras (about $5 USD).
6. Explore Cayos Cochinos – Accessible only by boat, Cayos Cochinos, or Hog Cays are two islands and 13 cays located just to the east of Utila.  Without a doubt, an off-the-beaten-path destination, this paradise is almost completely void of tourists.  Gorgeous sandy beaches, crystal clear water, and fresh seafood caught by locals (the waters here are protected from not only commercial fishing, but also commercial diving as well) are the reasons this place should be on your radar. 
7. Wander Water Cay – Closer than Cayos Cochinos, Water Cay is an uninhabited, palm-tree-lined, white sand tropical paradise.  The water is of the clearest turquoises and blues imaginable, the sandbar vast, and the coral reef and snorkeling are truly something out of this world.  Hang in a hammock, relax in the breeze, pack a cooler, and plan to spend the entire day.
8. Eat a Lionfish Burger – Especially since I don’t particularly care for red meat, the lionfish burger has got to be the best burger ever invented.  This unique fish is white, flakey, mild, and tender, and Utila is the best possible spot to give it a try.
9. Snap a “Selfie” with Dr. John – Disillusioned with his everyday life in the United States, a licensed Medical Doctor, Dr. John Mcvay visited the Island of Utila about 20 years ago, and like many others, decided he never wanted to leave.  Very quickly, he became known as “Dr. John” a living legend. No longer practicing medicine, Dr. John still resides in Utila and can usually be found relaxing on the front porch of his home, “Casa Dr. John” (a small pink and black house on the outskirts of town near the road to the airport). Keep in mind, he parties through the night, so I wouldn’t try to visit before noon-ish, but he’s super welcoming and offers a great spot to chill and charge up with good vibes.
10. Visit the Drug-Smuggling Plane Wreckage – In 2009, a Colombian drug smuggling plane with about 2 tons of cocaine on board crashed into the middle of Utila’s jungle near the airport runway. And that’s about the extent of the directions I had on my quest to discover the remaining debris.  It wasn’t easy.  And I’ll leave it at that. Side Note: This wreckage was removed from the jungle since I last visited, but was such a one of a kind experience, I felt it needed to be included. So, although no longer a Utila, Honduras “must-do”, it once was, and that’s worth mentioning!

Besides being a diving Mecca, there are a plethora of other things that attract backpackers from around the globe to this little slice of paradise. Utila, a one-town island, is one of those amazing backpacking destinations that has it all in one single condensed package. Check it out for yourself and experience why thousands of backpackers have been flocking to this haven for years. Only then will you truly understand the “3 Lies of Utila”.